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Breakfast in Türkiye is two different things. One is quick: tea, a simit, cheese or a poğaça — ten minutes, standing or at a counter. The other is the spread breakfast: dozens of small plates arrive, unlimited tea sits beside them and the table stretches out.

A spread breakfast is usually priced per person and served for two at least; if you are alone, choosing plates from the menu suits better. The breakfast kitchen often closes at eleven; after that it is better to look for a breakfast house than to ask whether breakfast is still on.

Breakfast has a backbone that changes by region: herbed cheese and clotted cream in Van, boyoz and olive-oil greens in the Aegean, maize bread and butter on the Black Sea. What is eaten at the same hour differs from one end of the country to the other.